On to even more interesting looks from Paris Fashion Week…sans latex couture.
Valentino got all ‘theatrical with it’ in Alessandro Michele’s debut. Titled “Vertigineux,” the nearly 50 pieces were revealed in flashing lights, colors, and silhouettes. Giorgio Armani celebrated 90. Armani Privé presented his spring/summer 2025 Lumières collection, inspired by all things light, ninety-three satin liquid-like surface pieces of daring cut-outs were presented, with trousers taking center stage. Designer Willy Chavarria’s new collection “Tarantula,” featured tuxedos and puffy dresses, all worn by nonbinary models. There was more drama here as his music stopped during the model’s runway mid-walk to play Bishop Mariann Edger Budde’s inaugural prayer ceremony, decrying discrimination towards transgender people.
Courting less of a statement, there were the various alt. shoe showings. Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey showed off his signature claw shoes. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus debuted army boots sporting toes turned at a 90-degree angle. And Chinese designer Feng Chen Wang showed off her collab with Ugg, coating her shoe wear with 3D-printed shells.
The runway hair and makeup looks created during couture season always err on the side of fantastical—and the Christian Dior Spring-Summer 2025 show garnered a lot of makeup and hair attention with creative/image director Peter Philips teaming with hairstylist Guido Palau. Their models walked down the runway with blushed cheeks, feathered brows, and what they called “romantic punk” Stephen Jones mohawks.
And presenting the last show of Paris Couture, Valentino, issued a health warning that their staging and lighting “might cause issues.” What was their particular go-to for fashion drama this year? In the beginning darkness, police sirens sounded, models walked the runway in huge crinolines, conical hoop skirts, colorful patchwork chiffon skirts, headgear, and masks, and at the show’s finale a wind machine was engaged that was so powerful it nearly knocked models over.
Of course, there were the usual celebrity showings, folks like Doja Cat, Kylie Jenner, Kelly Rutherford, Gabrielle Union, and Elton at the above-mentioned Valentino show. They sported their own see-and-be-scene style, completing with models walking the runways for paparazzi attention. And men, dressed even better than before from the various collections shown, were championing the “Neo-Dandies” trend, however one wants to define that term.
Don’t ask though where the latex was.
